Chiapas Mayan Ruins: Inaccessible Due to Cartel Violence and Land Disputes

Several Mayan ruin sites in Chiapas, Mexico, are inaccessible to visitors due to cartel violence and land disputes, with some requiring passage through drug gang checkpoints.

Mexico's government has acknowledged that two prominent Mayan ruin sites are inaccessible to visitors due to a combination of cartel violence and land disputes. However, two tourist guides in the southern state of Chiapas, near the Guatemalan border, assert that two additional sites, which the government claims are still open, can only be reached by passing through drug gang checkpoints.

Yaxchilán: Completely Cut Off

The government acknowledged on Friday that the Yaxchilán ruin site has been completely cut off due to the surge in drug cartel violence in Chiapas since last year. The tour guides, who requested anonymity due to the sensitivity of the situation, reported frequent sightings of gunmen and checkpoints on the road leading to another site, Bonampak, renowned for its murals.

Lagartero: Checkpoints and Identification Checks

To reach the archaeological site of Lagartero, travelers are forced to surrender their identification and cellphones at cartel checkpoints. The guides described an almost permanent gang checkpoint on the road to Lagartero, where gang members demand identification to determine if visitors are local residents. They also seize cellphones, demand sign-in codes, and inspect conversations to identify potential gang affiliations. The guides expressed concerns about the risk of sudden clashes between rival groups.

Tonina: Blocked by Landowner

In addition to cartel-related dangers, the imposing pyramids at Tonina are inaccessible due to a landowner's dispute with the government. The landowner has blocked access across his land, demanding payment for granting the right of way.

Government's Response and Lack of Concern

Despite the evident risks, the Mexican government appears unconcerned and even dismissive of suggestions that there is a problem. This stance aligns with President Andrés Manuel López Obrador's policy of downplaying gang violence, even as cartels expand their control over Mexican territory.

The National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) issued a statement asserting that Bonampak and Lagartero are open to the public. The agency dismissed concerns about drug traffickers endangering these archaeological sites and claimed to retain control over them.

Impact on Tourism

The situation has led to a decline in tourism in the region. Starting around December, approximately 5% of trips booked to the area have been canceled, and there are fears that this trend may continue. Once-popular adventurous trips to ruins deep in the jungle, such as Yaxchilán, are no longer feasible or are considered too risky, prompting several guides to publicly decline taking tourists to these locations.

Social Issues and Cartel Infiltration

The INAH acknowledges the inaccessibility of Yaxchilán but attributes it to "social issues" beyond its control. The escalation of cartel battles in Chiapas coincides with the increased flow of migrants, now estimated at half a million annually, moving through the Darien Gap jungle from South America, through Central America and Mexico, towards the US border. The influx of migrants from diverse regions, including Cuba, Asia, and Africa, has increased their willingness to pay higher smuggling fees, making the Chiapas routes more lucrative for cartels.

The situation has become increasingly challenging to manage. The National Guard, the quasi-military force tasked with law enforcement in Mexico, has faced resistance from local residents in several towns in Chiapas, who have pelted them with stones and sticks. This resistance is attributed to the cartels' recruitment or coercion of local people to act as foot soldiers and prevent the National Guard from entering their towns.

Impact on Indigenous Communities

The use of Indigenous groups, such as the Choles and Lacandones, as foot soldiers in cartel conflicts poses a grave threat to their communities. These groups are descendants of the ancient Maya and have either very few remaining members or are already embroiled in land disputes. The involvement in cartel activities further exacerbates their vulnerabilities.

Moreover, the presence of clandestine landing strips carved out by cartels in the jungle areas near the ruin sites compounds the challenges faced by Indigenous residents who rely on tourism for their livelihoods. The disruption of tourism significantly affects the local economy, impacting communities that provide handicrafts, accommodations, boat trips, and other services.

The situation highlights the urgent need for effective strategies to address cartel violence, land disputes, and the protection of cultural heritage sites while safeguarding the well-being of Indigenous communities.