New York fashion shows see muted colors for spring

NEW YORK, Sep 11 (Reuters) Spring fashion will look like a rainy day, if the latest predictions are true, with plenty of gray, brown and just brief glimpses of color like the sun breaking through a cloudy sky.

Neutral shades and earth tones predominate in spring clothes and reflect a mood of caution over issues such as the economy and the environment, say experts at New York Fashion Week, where hundreds of designers are showing new collections.

Missing are pastels, pretty florals and bold prints that typically arrive with spring. Instead, bursts of bright colors show up as brief accents.

''When people get concerned about what's happening in the world around them, they have a tendency to pull back, particularly on the things that cost a little more money,'' said said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute.

''Accents are where they are much more willing to do brighter color because it's not costing them as much money.'' In the collection by Generra, splashes of color dubbed lipstick and flame lit up neutrals of sand, lead and chalk. The Y-3 collection by Yohji Yamamoto was dark, heavy on black, brightened by dashes of bold red and blue.

Gray, not a traditional color for spring, was among the most popular. BCBGMAXARIA showed shades of gravel, charcoal, dove and heather, along with ivory, oatmeal and taupe rose.

Jason Wu displayed chiffon gowns in gray as well as nearly colorless nude and tan. Derek Lam mixed slate gray and brown in a two-tone dress enlivened by its satin shine and swingy cut.

Gray represents stability and dependability, said Eiseman.

''Charcoal gray, banker gray, gray flannel, those are always very serious colors we know we can depend on,'' she said.

Deep, woodsy tones flowed in the collection by Vera Wang, who showed charcoal, moss, olive, grass and silver.

Canada's Jeremy Laing showed an ''Arctic palette'' of milky whites and pale blues, with some yellow and green that he linked to the influence of the environmental movement.

''People are becoming more interested in knowing where something came from and feeling good about it,'' he said.

The popularity of green, such as the muted tones by Nicole Miller, reflects environmental concern, said Stan Herman, former head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

''Certainly there's enough talk about the Planet Earth these days that I would take it seriously if I were doing a collection,'' he said.

Nevertheless, a somber mood doesn't necessarily make for an entirely somber season. Michael Kors was sunny and upbeat with floral ruffles and rainbow stripes, while hot pink, orange, turquoise and cobalt blue blazed at Diane von Furstenberg.

Tracy Reese used hues of mango, passion fruit and pineapple.

REUTERS VD KP0818