Fall fashion shines brightly on New York catwalks

NEW YORK, Feb 9 (Reuters) All that glitters is not gold. It's rhinestones and lamDe that will shine in fall fashions.

Sparkle turned up on evening gowns and cocktail dresses as well as the most unlikely chunky sweaters, trench coats and loafers at this week's New York fashion show extravaganza where hundreds of designers unveiled their fall looks.

From jackets to trousers and skirts, looks of lamDe, gilded leather and woven metallic fabrics filled the catwalks, and even the most casual piece was adorned with sequins, patent leather appliques and rhinestones.

Fashion experts, many of whom see design as a reflection of the public mood, say the bright looks may strike a chord with consumers craving richness and comfort.

''Designers are all on the same vibe, upgrading with details and shine and fabric,'' said Robert Burke of Robert Burke Associates, a luxury consulting company. ''It's elegant without being uptight. It's going to appeal to a lot more people.'' Shine took center stage for Nicole Miller, Diane von Furstenberg and Michael Kors. Nanette Lepore adorned sweaters with sequins and Jason Wu made a trench coat of silvery metal.

Jackets had swinging silhouettes with bell-shaped or three-quarter length sleeves.

''There's definitely a looser silhouette,'' said James Aguiar, co-host of ''Full Frontal Fashion,'' a high-definition television show. ''It's a little easier to put on. It's not as tight or constrictive.'' Hemlines were above the knee, by a little or a lot. Hems often were loosely folded under, nipped or cinched, as they were by Alexandre Herchcovitch, Tracy Reese and Twinkle.

'IT WILL SELL' Luca Luca wove silver and gold threads through a gray cashmere jacket and hung huge rhinestones on a dress of silk and Lurex, a fabric of woven metallic threads.

''The biggest trend is the use of Lurex and shine,'' Aguiar said. ''Almost every designer has done it in their collection in some form or another.

''It will sell. If you have a little black dress, just throw on a little Lurex jacket and it dresses it up.'' Luxurious fabrics were center stage at Atil Kutoglu, who showcased a draped dress of crushed metallic burgundy leather.

Douglas Hannant designed with metallic tweed.

The same sense of richness turned up in colors that were, by and large, gold, silver and pewter and neutrals dubbed cognac, champagne and caviar.

Jewel tones dominated at Bruce as well as at Chaiken, where cashmere dresses were amethyst, onyx, emerald and ruby, and at Naeem Khan, who used sapphire, topaz and garnet.

The looks may appeal to consumers seeking richness in their lives, said Wendy Liebman, president of WSL Strategic Retail consultants.

''As I looked at some things that came to the runway, I kept thinking, 'Is this the reaction to the war, to burning up the planet?''' she said. ''We keep looking for some richness and lusciousness. It's looking beyond the ugliness of what we're all living with today.'' Accents sparkled as well. Models at Carolina Herrera wore opaque hosiery sprinkled with sequins. Akiko Ogawa's models, in foil tunics, wore sparkling pewter boots and loafers and at Abaete, models wore patent leather headbands.

With sparkle nearly everywhere, fashion can no longer be defined along lines of night and day, formal and casual, said Susan Rolontz of Tobe fashion retail consultants.

''Things are not relegated to categories or to specific times of day or specific places to wear them,'' she said. ''The word 'appropriate' is not really appropriate anymore.'' REUTERS AKJ VV0842