How Kolhapuri Chappals Reached Prada’s Runway and What Changed After the Backlash Over Cultural Credit

Kolhapuri chappals are heading to international shelves after Prada agreed to work directly with Indian artisans. The Italian fashion house plans a limited-edition line made in Maharashtra and Karnataka, following months of criticism. The move links a centuries-old craft with a global luxury label, while questions about cultural credit and fair payment remain central.

Under the plan, Prada will commission about 2,000 pairs of Kolhapuri chappals through state-backed leather corporations. Production will take place in Maharashtra and Karnataka, with each pair expected to sell for around $930 (Rs 84,239). The company says these sandals will reach 40 Prada stores worldwide and online from February 2026.

Prada controversy and Kolhapuri chappals backlash

The collaboration follows a backlash that began at Milan Fashion Week in June. Prada showed its Spring–Summer 2026 Men's collection there, including flat leather sandals with braided straps. Observers quickly noted their strong likeness to traditional Kolhapuri chappals, but neither India nor the craft received any mention during the show.

The sandals’ price also raised eyebrows. Prada reportedly tagged the pair at about Rs 1.2 lakh, while many Indian artisans sell handmade Kolhapuri chappals for around Rs 1,000. Images from the catwalk spread rapidly across social media, and the combination of high price and lack of credit triggered allegations of cultural appropriation.

Public outcry over Prada and Kolhapuri chappals

Anger came from several quarters, including business leaders, media and online commentators. Harsh Goenka, chairman of RPG Group, wrote on social media, "Prada is selling products looking like Kolhapuri chappals for more than 100,000 rupees. Our artisans make the same by hand for 400 rupees. They lose, while global brands cash in on our culture. Sad!"

Human rights group the Dalit Voice stressed the footwear’s social history. On Instagram, the organisation said Kolhapuri chappals are "a legacy of Dalit craftsmanship and resilience." "They are history, identity and resistance," it added. "Respect the roots." DNA News asked on X, "From the dusty lanes of Kolhapur to the glitzy runways of Milan… will the world finally give credit where it's due?"

Prada response and Kolhapuri chappals MoU

Amid the criticism, Prada issued a letter accepting that its sandals were linked to Indian traditions. The company acknowledged that the design was "inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage." It said senior representatives, including Lorenzo Bertelli, had opened discussions with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce about possible cooperation with artisans.

A Prada spokesperson stated that the brand has "always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions". The spokesperson added that Prada was ready for a "dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans" and promised follow-up meetings. Later, the company reached a formal agreement with state leather bodies in Maharashtra and Karnataka to produce Kolhapuri chappals.

State agencies, artisans and Kolhapuri chappals

The Memorandum of Understanding involves LIDCOM in Maharashtra and LIDKAR in Karnataka. LIDCOM is the Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation, while LIDKAR is the Dr Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation. Both organisations support people from disadvantaged communities, many of whom rely on handmade Kolhapuri chappals for their livelihood.

Lorenzo Bertelli said the aim is to highlight the craft internationally while ensuring fair returns. "We'll mix the original manufacturers' standard capabilities with our manufacturing techniques," Bertelli said. He explained that the programme will run for three years and emphasised that artisans would receive proper compensation under this limited-edition Kolhapuri chappals line.

Legal challenges and protection for Kolhapuri chappals

Even before the MoU, formal complaints were already in motion. The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture, which represents about 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal makers, sent a notice to Prada. The organisation also said it would start steps to patent Kolhapuri chappals, arguing that the design and name need stronger protection.

Chamber president Lalit Gandhi said, "The collection includes footwear designs that bear a close resemblance to Kolhapuri sandals, a traditional handcrafted leather sandal that has been awarded 'geographical indication' status by the government of India in 2019." Gandhi urged Prada to find "collaboration or fair compensation that could benefit" Indian artisans involved with Kolhapuri chappals.

GI status, economy and history of Kolhapuri chappals

The GI tag for Kolhapuri chappals covers eight districts across Maharashtra and Karnataka. It recognises both the origin and the specific design. The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture estimates around 100,000 artisans work in this trade nationally. The Kolhapuri chappals market is valued at about $200 million, or roughly Rs 1,812 crore.

Kolhapuri chappals take their name from Kolhapur in Maharashtra, where the craft has long roots. Historians trace the style back to at least the 12th Century. These sandals are made by hand, often over many hours. They are typically sold by artisans for around Rs 1,000, a fraction of international designer prices.

According to history professor Kavita Gagrani from New College in Kolhapur, "These sandals were originally crafted by members of the marginalised Charmakar (cobbler) community, also known as Chamars,". Gagrani added that "But in the early 20th Century, the craft flourished when the then ruler of Kolhapur, Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, granted royal patronage to this community."

Local makers behind Kolhapuri chappals

The number of practising artisans in Kolhapur itself has dropped to about 5,000, according to estimates. Craftsman Sadashiv Sanake told the BBC that Sanake makes about eight to ten pairs a day. "I learned the craft as a child," Sanake said, describing a life shaped almost entirely by Kolhapuri chappals work.

Another maker, 60-year-old Sunita Satpute, said, "I was never educated. This is all I know, and I earn about $4–5 (Rs 362–453) a day, depending on the number of orders,". When Sanake heard the global prices for lookalike sandals, Sanake reportedly reacted with disbelief and asked, "Is there gold in them?"

Debate on credit, business and Kolhapuri chappals

Members of the Kolhapur Royal family also expressed concern. Sambhaji Chhatrapati said disappointment arose because Kolhapuri chappals craftsmen were not acknowledged for a "history and heritage of 150 years." Commentators argued that the issue was not only price, but the erasure of the communities behind the footwear.

Former World Bank executive director Dhanendra Kumar told the Economic Times, "While Indian artisans and small-scale producers excel in craftsmanship, they rarely have access to capital or business acumen" to position their products globally as luxury goods. "By not calling their new line of sandals 'Kolhapuris', Prada is guilty of monetising cultural appropriation," he added.

Legal experts also stepped in to support the artisans’ case. Intellectual Property Rights advocate Ganesh S Hingemire filed a Public Interest Litigation at the Bombay High Court. The petition demanded that Prada compensate Indian Kolhapuri chappals makers, arguing that their designs and communities had helped shape the sandals presented on the Milan runway.

As the new collaboration begins, Kolhapuri chappals are set to appear in luxury stores while retaining their roots in Maharashtra and Karnataka workshops. The project promises higher prices and wider visibility, alongside GI protection and legal pressure. Whether these steps deliver lasting gains for artisans will be measured in income, recognition and continued survival of the craft.