Coming Soon: Kurta-Pyjama As Mess Dress Code In Indian Navy

Directives have been reportedly issued by the Indian Navy to its commands and establishments, allowing officers and sailors to wear kurta-pyjamas in naval messes, as part of its efforts to shed its colonial past.

The move comes just months after the unveiling of a new design of the Admirals' epaulettes by the Navy, reflecting the legacy of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj.

The introduction of the ethnic kurta-pyjama for its personnel and the efforts to put an end to the 'ghulami ki maansikta' or colonial mindset are being pursued by the force. Let's delve deeper into the reasons behind these initiatives.

Ethnic wear to enter the Indian Navy's messes

The "ethnic" dress of kurta-pyjamas, along with sleeveless jackets and closed formal shoes or sandals, can be worn by officers and sailors in officers' messes and sailors' institutes, reported Times Of India. The Navy's guidelines to its commands and establishments also lay down the colour and style of the attire which can be donned when "the prescribed rig is informal (open collar) or casuals" in the messes.

It has been specified in the Navy order that the kurta must be of a "solid tone", with a length up to the knees. The cuff sleeves on the kurta can be adorned with buttons or cuff links. Additionally, the "matching or contrast tone" of the narrow pyjama has to be "in line with trousers, with elastic waistband and side pockets", as reported by TOI.

Furthermore, the straight-cut waistcoat or jacket will be sleeveless and embellished with a "matching pocket square". It has been mentioned that women officers can wear "kurta-churidaar" or "kurta-palazzo". An officer stated,"This new dress code is not applicable for warships or submarines," reported TOI.

Up until now, kurta-pyjamas for male personnel and even guests were banned in the Indian Army, Indian Air Force (IAF), and Navy messes. The Indian traditional wear was only permitted on festive occasions such as Lohri and Diwali in the wardrooms, Officers' Institutes (OI), messes etc., as per a source cited by Free Press Journal (FPJ).

Why is this being done?

Reports last September indicated that discussions had been held by the top naval brass regarding the allowance of kurta-pyjamas as "national civil dress" for officers and sailors at the naval commanders' conference.

According to a source in the Navy cited by Free Press Journal last September, officers will now be permitted to wear kurta-pyjamas as an additional rig if they or their visiting guests/parents/family are comfortable wearing it. It was emphasized that they will not be compelled to change into Western wear such as lounge suits or open collars if they are not comfortable.

As explained by the source, specifications for the traditional dress for summer or winter bandh gala will be laid out, similar to any other rigs. It was clarified that the attire is not intended to replace any uniform or existing rigs of any officer mess or OI. Instead, it is an attempt to be more inclusive, more Bharatiya, and as a mark of respect for the culture.

How Navy is shedding colonial practices?

In December 2023, a lead over the other two armed forces - the Army and the IAF - was taken by the Indian Navy to get rid of the colonial-era customs and traditions. The new design of the Admirals' epaulettes, an ornamental shoulder piece depicting the rank of an officer, which had features from the Rajmudra of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, was introduced by the Navy at that time.

It was stated by the force at the time that the new design "reaffirms our commitment to the two pillars of 'Panch Pran' - 'Virasat Par Garv' & 'Ghulami ki Mansikta se Mukti'".

In recent years, several measures have been taken by the Indian military to do away with colonial customs. In 2021, the top commanders of the three services were told by Prime Minister Narendra Modi at the Combined Commanders Conference in Gujarat's Kevadia to "rid themselves of legacy systems and practices that have outlived utility and relevance".

Since then, efforts have been made by the Indian military to shorn its colonial antecedents. The decision to "Indianise" the names of the ranks for sailors has been made by the Navy. Several ranks of the personnel below officer rank (PBOR) cadre, including three titles that are not gender neutral, are being planned to be redesigned.

Previously, a new ensign was received by the Indian Navy that replaced the old one which had Saint George's Cross with the Tricolour in the canton. It was stated by the force that the new Naval ensign was "resonant with the ongoing national endeavour to move away from the colonial past."

The practice of carrying ceremonial batons has been stopped by the Navy for all its personnel. However, these modifications have not always been received well by the veterans who argue that "colonial" legacies have had no adverse effect on military efficiency, as reported by The Wire.