The designer did not disappoint the fashion fraternity with his opulent traditional wedding atire. Retaining the basic styling and cut of the dresses, Sabyasachi focussed his energy on the details -- rich embroideries on sherwanis, earthy toned shawls and colourful headgears for the men. For the brides, he offered equally intricate dresses --lehangas and cholis and regal shawls and stoles. ''Bride is a deep rooted girl, who may use global brands but is yet bound by the ethos and morals of the Indian culture,'' Sabyasachi said yesterday about his Autumn/Winter '09 collection.
As an extension of his 'Chandbibi' (Spring/Summer '09) collection, the designer has been asute enough not to play around with the Indian pysche, especially for an important occasion like wedding. This for some may translate into lack of dare on the designer's part to redefine or reinvent the Indian wedding dress.
Justifying his apparent lack of changes in the basic look, Sabyasachi said, '' Even though we are expected to show a new design every six months, its not before two-three years that a line penetrates the market. The Indian pysche inhibits an average woman to experiment with a new creation unless she draws from her own verdict after seeing 10 others wear it first.'' Preceding Sabyasachi's show, Bollywood star Anil Kapoor walked the ramp in grey fatigues for Kunal Rawal's collection Spring/Summer '09 themed ''Expedition''.
Kunal described his collection as anti-fit or comfort fits.
''Its a semi formal line if you ask me as a genre, which has been inspired by the outdoors,'' he said.
The punk/rock and military influence was obvious with Army helmets lined up on the runway and the show starting with AC/DC's ''Highway to Hell''. The men's section had jackets, camouflage pants, cargos, crocs patent leather pants and drain pipes. A variety of Army berets, officer's caps completed the picture. Accessories were holdalls, camouflage backpacks and a rifle.
The designer, who admits being more comfortable working on men's range, displayed a creditable collection of the women's range -- tartan pants, black leather drain pipes, canvas army boots and moccasins as footwear. Accessories for the women's line was a variety of holdalls and outdoor bags.
The overall range was neutral with greys, blues, black and browns dominating the collection, which added to the vintage appeal. The only question that remains is what Kunal wanted to convey by his theme-hunting expedition or a military one?